Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in City Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.
This is perhaps the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish berries on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of the city downtown.
"I've seen individuals hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," says the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has organized a informal group of growers who make vintage from several discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots throughout the city. It is too clandestine to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the Globe
To date, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre area and more than 3,000 vines with views of and within the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them all over the world, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist cities remain greener and more diverse. They protect open space from construction by creating long-term, yielding farming plots within urban environments," explains the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, environment and history of a urban center," adds the president.
Unknown Polish Variety
Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish grape," he says, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Collective Efforts Across Bristol
The other members of the group are also making the most of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from approximately 50 plants. "I adore the smell of these vines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has previously survived three different owners," she explains. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."
Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated over 150 vines situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple dark berries from lines of vines arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually create good, natural wine," she says. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an old way of producing vintage."
"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts are released from the skins into the juice," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and then add a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Conditions and Inventive Solutions
A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has assembled his companions to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to Europe. However it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to erect a barrier on